Maegan and Eli arrived safely (Maegan´s bag, however, did not) and we have been humming along to the beat of Lima for the last few days.
For a city of 8 million people, it is incredibly laid-back and strikingly clean; off the main roads, there are quiet brick lanes lined with food stalls, fruit vendors, and shoe stores. Lots, and lots, of shoe stores. So South American.
Our hotel is located in the city center, near the Plaza de Mayo, the Cathedral de San Fransisco, and the Presidential Palace. Hotel España is on the corner of two lanes, perched above a small cafe. Green vines spill out over the walls, and brush the sidewalk, framing two enormous wooden doors. After passing into the foyer, you are greeted with dozens of master copies of famous paintings- Dali, Botocelli, Rembrandt, Da Vinci, Sisley, all in elaborate gold-gilded frames. Plaster replicas of Michaelangelo´s most famous statues stand on Romanesque pedestals, while light and vines drip down from the solarium above. Crown molding and fríezes line the halls, and the entire rabbit warren of five floors is lit with fantasic lead-glass chandeliers. The floors are connected by a series of mahagony spiral staircases and terraces, which look out across the city and the cathedral. It is truly a destination in itself. Throw in four tortises, a cat, dog, scarlet macaw, and Amazon parrot, and you have Hotel España. Where we take siesta, swill rum and play cards.
Today we hiked out in the desert across the ruins of Pachacamac. Nothing but sand lies west of the small town, and it is being moved away to reveal an ancient city of sand blocks and rock that was built by the Huari people in 200 CE. Much of it has been damaged by El Niño events, but it is still remarkable. Also remarkable: How none of us were sunburn. It was crazy hot and high noon.
Tomorrow we take off for Casma, or somewhere like it. Ceviche, pisco and ocean. Sounds good, right?
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